Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
